{"id":676,"date":"2015-06-28T01:03:01","date_gmt":"2015-06-28T01:03:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/?page_id=676"},"modified":"2022-02-10T11:22:02","modified_gmt":"2022-02-10T11:22:02","slug":"mexico-merida-hammocks-celestun-flamingos-gulf-of-mexico-pelicans-americanos-part-one","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/?page_id=676","title":{"rendered":"Mexico: Merida Hammocks &#038; Celestun Flamingos &#038; Gulf of Mexico Pelicans Americanos (part one)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020435.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-688 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020435.jpg\" alt=\"VW beetle Merida Mexico\" width=\"3648\" height=\"2736\" srcset=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020435.jpg 3648w, https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020435-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020435-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 3648px) 100vw, 3648px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>I travelled from Cancun to Merida on the ADO bus arriving in some car parking lot on the outskirts of town in August. It was uncomfortably\u00a0hot and sticky just two\u00a0seconds after the air-conditioning faded away from\u00a0the door. I&#8217;d originally planned to stay three of four nights here but only\u00a0ended up booking\u00a0two as Kurt had told me I must go to Palenque, in the jungles of Chiapas a few hours from here, to see the Mayan ruins. Kurt didn&#8217;t go because he had the shits in San Cristobal de la Casas. The <em>bano<\/em> type.<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;d heard Merida was <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">the<\/span> place to buy hammocks, so I planned to just walk around the town the next day, grab a bit of Yucatan food, and as I wrote at the start of the sentence, go buy a hammock. Not sure where I heard that it was the place to get hammocks, I think word just gets around about these type of things.<\/p>\n<p>But when I got to my hotel on Calle 55 and\u00a0dumped my bags I felt the humidity growing ever more stuffing like a strangler fig growing over a tree\u00a0and\u00a0I\u00a0realised walking around Merida at this time of year for\u00a0the whole day looking for hammocks would be what the French call &#8216;too exhausting&#8217;. So I made an instant coffee then went down and asked my Irish host whether the hammock shops would be\u00a0open in the evenings so I wouldn&#8217;t have to get all hot and bothered during the day.<\/p>\n<p>He said, &#8216;yes&#8217;.<\/p>\n<p>I then asked him what I could do around Merida the next day instead of walking around in the heat like a steaming empanada and he recommended I go on a river \u00a0tour to nearby Celestun, to see some flamingoes and swim in fresh water springs in a mangrove forest.<\/p>\n<p>As flamingoes are well know for being freakin awesome, and I assumed it was going to be\u00a0much cooler cruising down a crocodile-infested river than the pretty criss-crossed <em>calles<\/em> of Merida, where the odds go up\u00a0and the evens across, or vice-versa depending on where your head&#8217;s at, \u00a0I was like , &#8216;where do you sign me up, and would I will I still have time to buy a hammock in the evening tomorrow\u00a0as I can&#8217;t be bothered going out today as I&#8217;d prefer to just sit in the pool until sunset then go out and eat some Yucantani cuisine, if there is such a thing&#8217;.<\/p>\n<p>And he was like, in the most friendly leprechaun inspired accent, &#8216;to be sure, to be sure, there will be plenty of time left to buy yourself a hammock, the shops here usually open quite late, tanks to the heat, you don&#8217;t have to worry yourself about that&#8217;. He gave me the name of a place where they dealt in fine quality Yucatan made hammocks, rather than the usual shit ones made in China they just sell to tourists, about 10 blocks away.<\/p>\n<p>So I signed up for the tour, got in my Billabongs, and sat in the pool for a few hours talking with a British couple travelling with their daughter. They were nice, there&#8217;s lots of nice people in the world, sometimes you find them in the shade in pools in small boutique hotels in Merida, sometimes in coffee shops, they&#8217;re all over the place really. I chatted and chatted, glad to hear and talk English &#8211; not that I&#8217;m some sort of neo-nazi, I just get tired speaking Spanish &#8211;\u00a0before heading out\u00a0in the relative cool respite of the late afternoon, helped by a brief, but fairly ferocious, tropical\u00a0downpour which left the pretty colonial buildings freshly washed and the air smelling fresh with that smell only rain brings.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020438.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-691 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020438.jpg\" alt=\"pink building merida mexico\" width=\"3648\" height=\"2736\" srcset=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020438.jpg 3648w, https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020438-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020438-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 3648px) 100vw, 3648px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020439.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-692 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020439.jpg\" alt=\"blue building merida mexico\" width=\"3648\" height=\"2736\" srcset=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020439.jpg 3648w, https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020439-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020439-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 3648px) 100vw, 3648px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020437.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-690 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020437.jpg\" alt=\"merida mexico\" width=\"3648\" height=\"2736\" srcset=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020437.jpg 3648w, https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020437-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020437-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 3648px) 100vw, 3648px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The day didn&#8217;t seem to quite want to end &#8211; not that I could see any sign of the sun behind the cloudy haze and tall buildings, which weren&#8217;t really that tall, just that the streets were narrow so you couldn&#8217;t get far enough away from them to see over them very much. It was only just starting to show signs of nightfall by the time\u00a0I found a little Yucatan restaurant a few streets up from the hotel where I felt inspired to try their shark empanadas.\u00a0While waiting for the delicacy I snacked\u00a0on the complementary corn tortilla chips, guacamole and frijole dips they often provide in Mexico before meals, but found by\u00a0the time the\u00a0empanadas arrived I had eaten the\u00a0whole bowl of tortilla chips and couldn&#8217;t manage more than a few bites of the serving of six empanadas which would have been enough to feed\u00a0half of dozen of me.<\/p>\n<p>I was worried\u00a0that not eating the empanadas could cause waves with the restaurant staff so I tried to eat as much as I could, which only amounted to one and a half with even that being a struggle. It didn&#8217;t help that they were, for my taste, bloody awful, and my stomach was still recovering from trying\u00a05 peso tacos in Mexico City a few nights earlier.<\/p>\n<p>On paying I did indeed cause a stir, with the management and chef gathered around questioning me in Spanish (as they tend to do in Mexico) as to why I had come all the way from Australia to their restaurant but couldn&#8217;t even eat the half a shark they&#8217;d spent so much trouble preparing, possibly explaining that their cousin had had to wrestle with the creature for six hours with his bare hands, and that he had lost part of his little finger in the process, before they had paid 70 pesos to transport it in a special taxi to the restaurant.<\/p>\n<p>I tried to explain that I had a feeling that\u00a0I might not like shark\u00a0empanadas but my mother always used to try and get me to try new things so I thought I&#8217;d try them anyway, I even threw in\u00a0a 20 peso tip to show I knew it was me not them and that even though we were parting we could all still be friends. But my Spanish did not extend much beyond asking where the main street was and purchasing a bus ticket so both myself and the staff left with heavy hearts &#8211; them with the shame of having prepared such an awful meal and me with the shame of not being able to explain that it really wasn&#8217;t that awful it just wasn&#8217;t to my taste nor able to be fit in with my still tender tummy.<\/p>\n<p>On the way home I recalled a place I&#8217;d seen earlier in the day where I could have put my empanadas to avoid offending the Yucatan restaurant staff:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020436.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-689 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020436.jpg\" alt=\"organica bin merida mexico\" width=\"2736\" height=\"3648\" srcset=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020436.jpg 2736w, https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020436-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020436-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2736px) 100vw, 2736px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-737 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020446.jpg\" alt=\"yucatan dancers merida mexico\" width=\"3648\" height=\"2736\" srcset=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020446.jpg 3648w, https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020446-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020446-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 3648px) 100vw, 3648px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>My Irish host had earlier told me that there was more than just hammocks in Merida, there was also free <em>craic,<\/em> as they\u00a0say in Ireland,\u00a0or<em>\u00a0<\/em>evening <em>fiestas<\/em> as they say in Mexico,\u00a0which they had at certain\u00a0squares around Merida and that tonight was my lucky night, it was the turn of the square\u00a0just across the road from the hotel to host one. After\u00a0the intense heat of the day the night was a welcome relief so after changing from my sticky clothes, and recharged from another instant coffee (not having found a decent cappuccino anywhere in Mexico yet), I headed to the square to watch some traditional Yucatan dances where they wore cool white suites and put things like tea pot sets on their heads and the such, before a band called <em>Los Juglares<\/em> put on an acoustic number with guitars and smiley Mexican singing that was not mariachi but the contemporary sounds of Yucatan.<\/p>\n<p>I lamented that in Australia no one did this sort of thing and that everyone would at this hour be sitting in font of a TV or computer screen by this time watching\u00a0funny memes and vines on YouTube,\u00a0where here grandparents, young lovers, and children, as well as a sizeable tourist contingent, feel the joy of being together. By the way, there&#8217;s a bit of the dancing from that night on my YouTube channel:\u00a0<a title=\"Merida Dancing Fiesta!\" href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=spwlQjO0-lw\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=spwlQjO0-lw<\/a><\/p>\n<p>I stayed for the whole show, and bought a <em>Los Juglares<\/em> CD, before\u00a0having a little beer and tequila\u00a0night cap, as I&#8217;d become accustomed to doing in my trip to the magic Mexico, in a nice little bar a few streets over where I explained to a\u00a0bartender, who was eager\u00a0to practice his English, where the best spots in Australia are to see red-bellied black snake and platypuses, taking yet another photo of a VW Beetle on the way back through the wet streets and into bed.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/?page_id=861\">Part Two<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020440.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-736 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020440.jpg\" alt=\"blue vw beetle merida mexico\" width=\"3648\" height=\"2736\" srcset=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020440.jpg 3648w, https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020440-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020440-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 3648px) 100vw, 3648px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1020440.jpg\">g<\/a>reenpaddocks@gmail.com<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<a class=\"synved-social-button synved-social-button-follow synved-social-size-24 synved-social-resolution-normal synved-social-provider-facebook nolightbox\" data-provider=\"facebook\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\" title=\"Follow us on Facebook\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Juanitos.travels\/\" style=\"font-size: 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\/><\/a>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp; I travelled from Cancun to Merida on the ADO bus arriving in some car parking lot on the outskirts of town in August. It was uncomfortably\u00a0hot and sticky just two\u00a0seconds after the air-conditioning faded away from\u00a0the door. I&#8217;d originally planned to stay three of four nights here but only\u00a0ended up booking\u00a0two as Kurt had &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/?page_id=676\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Mexico: Merida Hammocks &#038; Celestun Flamingos &#038; Gulf of Mexico Pelicans Americanos (part one)<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-676","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/676","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=676"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/676\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2280,"href":"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/676\/revisions\/2280"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/juanitos-travels.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=676"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}